swaziland

The day after Thanksgiving I was able to go to go to Swaziland with my neighbor, Mary, and her two children, Angel and Angelo. Friday morning we caught a chappa into Maputo and got off close to the bus station. We went into the bus station and found the sign for the one going to Swazi. We got in handed over our passports and waited. Little did I know that the buses aren't on a schedule like they are in America, but just wait until the bus is full to depart. We actually ended up waiting for about 2 and 1/2 hours just to leave the bus station. The trip to Swazi wasn't too bad. I was grateful that they only allow the bus to be filled with one person in each seat, as opposed to as many as physically possible like they do in Maputo. We crossed the border, unloaded the mini-bus, then caught a chappa to the town that Mary's parents live in. When we made it to their house I was shocked at how nice the house is. It had carpet, which reminded me very much of American houses (in Maputo I don't think I've seen any houses with wall-to-wall carpeting. We then sat down to a lovely meal in the formal dining room and I was able to meet the different members of her family. There was a great-grandma, two grandmothers, an uncle, mom and dad, two sisters, three more adopted sisters that were orphans, a younger brother, another adopted brother, and even a friendly dog. They were very hospitable and glad to finally meet me after hearing about me from Mary.

The view from the front yard of their house in Swaziland.

The next day we were getting ready to go a birthday party for a family friend. Much to my surprise it was another 2 hours away. (After a quick run to the mall in Mbabane, which was more like an outdoor plaza, but very clean and highly populated with security guards.) We started on our beautiful and scenic drive through the hills of Swazi to the birthday party. It was at this man's house on a compound in the bush, actually very close to the Mozambican border. By the time we arrived most of the people were already there. We soon started feasting. There was so much food. I was surprised at first by the amount of food that was prepared, but then I was shocked by the fact that it actually fed all of the people there. I'm guessing it was easily close to 100 people. The food was delicious and some of it very foreign, yet new, to me!

My plate of food including salad, chicken, rice, cabbage, beets, potatoes, beef and goat.

I soon asked Mary's mom about how they knew this man as she was telling me that she is close to all of the people. At one point they all lived in Rwanda together, but when the war broke out they were forced out of the country just for the sake of remaining alive. Many people went to many different countries as displaced people. This was the community that went to Swaziland. Over the years they have kept their community strong and helped each other remember their identity as wandis, as well as swatis, living in a new land that is not their home. This was amazing to me as I was seeing how these people were still a sort of family after so many years, and hearing stories of how they depended on and learned from each other as they were in a new place with nothing but what they could manage to flee with. The resilience was astounding! But they still remember, they can't forget, and they still have hope. Many of the people present were educated even having a masters or phD. They have made their new land their own, but they still speak of Rwanda as home. They only gather like this on very special occasions, this day being a 50th birthday.

I was able to take part of and see some of the differences in Rwandan culture, specifically within a community that is located in another country. Africa is Africa, but there are definite differences among Africans from different countries, tribes and regions. Even the Mozambican and Rwandan greetings are different. In Mozambique you give a kiss on each cheek, I've gotten quite accustomed to this now and do it without even thinking about it. In Rwanda they give a hug, and not on both sides, so I had to quickly re-adjust what I've gotten used to.

When the time for cake came everyone sang and clapped for the birthday boy (man), Nsanze. He then had to say a speech. Like most good Africans, it was a little lengthy. He talked about when they came from Rwanda and talked about each of their kids and his wife and how they were the ones who helped him keep going when he was at some of the lowest points. He then talked about different people who were present who also helped him start from nothing and support him and his family during rough times. 

Cutting the birthday cake.